The Basotho people have been called "a nation on horseback" and aptly so, considering that four fifths of their land is situ--a--ted in incredibly rugged mountain areas, rising in places to 3 000 metres, cut in-between by deep river valleys, only to rise again along steep, precipitous and dangerous passes to high mountain regions – scenically awe-inspiring.

Until recent years, the only way to traverse these mountains was on horseback or by foot. Horses, then, became very valuable posses-sions. The first properly constructed road into the mountains suitable for motor transport, was not built until about 1954.

Others who needed to travel in the mountains, were government administrative officials, traders and missionaries. There are photographs of traders at the turn of the 20th century, trekking into the mountains with 40 or 50 pack animals carrying goods for sale.

During the 1920s and 1930s, a successful campaign was undertaken by the veterinary department to control sheep scab and other parasites by regular controlled dipping. Over 200 dipping tanks were built, mostly in the mountains, for this purpose. And yes – all the materials, cement, heavy fencing posts, wire, chemicals and the like had to be transported by pack animals!

Soil erosion became a serious problem in Basutoland, especially after the 1933 drought years. The British government introduced a comprehensive soil conservation programme from about 1936 onwards. One aspect of this programme was to build well-constructed bridle paths, wide enough for two animals to pass one another going in opposite directions.

Trekking to work in order to encourage crop production, institute grazing control measures, build woolsheds, and a host of other tasks, could mean anything from three days to three weeks, in all weather, riding on horseback, with pack mules to carry camping and other equipment, accompanied by two Basotho pack grooms to look after the mules and to act as guides.

Very often rivers would be in flood, especially the Orange or Senqu, so that animals had to swim across. This needed good judgement by the grooms to ensure that there was a suitable landing space on the other side of the river for the animals to get out. Horses and mules are excellent swimmers.

Fortunately for us humans, traders kept row--ing boats at strategic places to transport their customers across swollen rivers so we could cross by boat – sometimes a hair-raising experience!

The Coryndon packsaddle
Packsaddles are at the best of times tough on animals, requiring breast girths and breeching as well as normal girthing. A very efficient and comfortable packsaddle was designed early in the 20th century for Basutoland conditions. It was called the Coryndon saddle named after the British Resident Commissioner in Basutoland.

Essentially it was a military general service, or universal saddle fitted to large well-padded cushions. It had a front and rear girth connected with side straps. The rear girth was situated in the soft part of the belly behind the rib cage and tightly fastened. This prevented the saddle from sliding forward, doing away with breeching.

The front girth was situated normally in the hollow between brisket and belly. This prevented the saddle from sliding backwards. The side straps were adjusted so as to pull the front girth backwards to prevent girth galls. On top of the universal saddle frame were two hooks welded on and covered in leather. Panniers or pack bags had two strong leather covered rope loops, which were hung from the hooks on the saddle frame. If necessary these loops could be twisted to raise one or the other of the panniers for balance.

A canvass cover was placed over the pack bags to keep out rain. A diamond-shaped surcingale was attached to the hooks, and fastened over the pack bags and attached to a third girth under the belly. No buckles were used; only cinches which could be tightly pulled up to keep the load in place. These Coryndon saddles, correctly fitted and tightly girthed were successfully used to carry heavy loads over the roughest and precipitous terrain.

The system was to have one pack groom riding in front for the mules to follow, while a second pack groom would drive them from behind. The mules and spare horses soon learnt to keep in line without actually being led.

It is well-known that equines "blow themselves up" while being saddled. It is essential, therefore, to halt after about 45 minutes trek to check the girths and tighten up if necessary. The secret of a comfortable pack saddle, assuming it has been properly fitted, is to prevent the saddle from shifting about. Woolen saddle blankets were used under the saddle to help absorb sweat, which could be dried out at the end of the day.

Before tightening the girths it was necessary to grab the blanket at each end and pull it well up between the side panels ,so that the animal’s spine was free from any pressure from the blanket, especially over the withers. This was particularly important with pack horses having higher withers than mules. Incidentally, mules were far better suited as pack animals than horses.

Vital to the comfort of the animal, was to ensure that the pack bags were of equal weight, so that they hung at the same height on either side. Sometimes a stone was placed in a lighter bag to balance them!

Trekking guidelines
Loading mules
Aim at a balanced load of not more than 60 lb (22 kg) in each pack bag. It is important that the two bags are the same weight. If one is heavier than the other, it pulls the saddle to one side, resulting in a sore back.

Saddling
• Girths, properly adjusted, must be pulled up as tightly as possible, since they tend to slacken off when the saddle is loaded.
• Check that the grooms pull the saddle blanket firmly up between the side panels of the saddle before girthing up, otherwise the blanket tends to pull down on the withers, causing injury.
• Try to avoid saddling a mule when the back is wet – wet backs cause sore backs.
• Let the grooms do the saddling and keep away from the animal's hind legs!

Trekking
• Stop after 30 minutes of trekking. Check that the girths are still tight and that packs are in order. Animals will usually pass water and it is imperative that they have the chance to do so.
• Usually you can trek up to six hours without off-saddling, but you must stop for 5-10 minutes every hour so that animals can pass water and nibble a few mouthfuls of grass.
• If the trek is likely to be more than six hours, you must off-saddle after four hours. You must insist on this as grooms often do not like to do this.
• Try to avoid more than nine hours trek per day.
• Travel at a reasonable pace. Mules should not be asked to canter with heavy loads.
• When off-saddling, remove the pack bags first, then wait a few minutes, undo girths slowly to relieve back pressure gradually before removing saddles.
• Try to reach your camping site at least an hour before sunset, to allow backs to cool down and dry off before sunset.
• Saddle blankets should be spread out to dry.

Camping
• Grooms know where there are reasonable camping sites with good water and adequate grazing for the animals.
• Pay your respects to the nearest chief or headman, and ask him where you should camp and get grazing.
• Dig a hole in which to dispose of refuse, including human waste.
• Hobble or tether animals at night, and make it clear to grooms that it is their responsibility to see that animals do not damage crops during the night.