In the last few issues of SA Horseman we looked at the importance of schooling a horse correctly. We looked at some intricate movements aimed at balance, suppleness and a greater regard for the leg. We will now begin to discuss more advanced movements, for which a greater measure of collection is necessary.

These movements, as well as this degree of collection, are mostly only used in dressage, but can be valuable to horses of other disciplines to instill discipline and control, promote greater suppleness, and strengthen the muscles in the back and hindquarter.

What is collection all about?

Baron Hans Von Blixen-Finecke says in his book, The Art of Riding, that “without suppleness, there is no true collection … Collection, therefore, cannot be obtained from a shortening of the movements due to the influence of the hands, but the hind legs being made to step further underneath the horse by use of the forward aids.”

This should tell us that merely pulling at a horse’s mouth and kicking him forward from behind, will achieve nothing. True collection is when “the hindquarter is taking most of the weight from the forehand which is then given more lightness and freedom of movement. This is achieved by the hind legs coming further in underneath the body with an increased bend of all joints. The forelegs are picked up nearer the vertical with a higher knee.

The action becomes livelier at the same time as the action becomes shorter. What you lose in length, should be gained in height. The position of the head and neck is slightly higher and the croup lower, according to the degree of collection.” In true collection, the poll is the highest point of the horse and the nose is on, or more usually, slightly in front of the vertical – depending on the horse’s conformation.

The horse should be in total “equilibrium” or self-carriage. Collection is very hard and strenuous work for a horse and initially only short periods of collection should be asked for, with much stretching and relaxing in between.

The legs and seat drive the horse forward more actively, with the hands gently resisting the increase in speed that should normally result, with a series of half-halts, keeping the rhythm constant. Take care not to pull or hang on the horse’s mouth, as this will result in the opposite effect, encouraging the horse to lean or hang in the rider’s hands. After a few steps, allow the horse to move forward unhindered in a working pace.

Turn on the haunches

Correctly performed, this exercise forces the horse to engage his hocks in order to allow the outside front leg to move over in front of the inside one. The horse pivots around the inside hind leg with the outside one stepping forwards and the forehand sidestepping on a circle around it. The outside foreleg is put down in front of the inside one.

The inside hind leg is picked up and put down again in the same place in a normal walking rhythm (this is where the difference comes in with the western spin, where the horse does not continue “walking” with the inside hind, but uses it to pivot/spin on). The horse has a slight flexion in the poll in the direction that he is turning.

Aids for this exercise given by Von Blixen-Finecke, are: “Weight to the inside, both legs sustain the forwards impulsion, the inside one controls and activates the inside hind leg and regulates the speed of turning.

“The outside leg immediately behind the girth prevents – together with the outside hand – the quarters from falling out and brings the forehand round [do not move the outside leg too far back, as this tends to throw your weight forward, shifting the horse’s quarters to the inside]. The inside rein maintains the bend and the flexion and guides the forehand into the turning step by step. The rider’s inside hip and outside shoulder well forwards, eyes in the turning direction.”

What makes this movement more difficult for the rider, is the fact that he has to be on the inside, while the main leg aid is on the outside. More muscle power has to be used and often causes tension elsewhere in the body, often the hands. It is also tempting to shift one’s weight to the outside, but that will mean losing the bend, or to neck-rein, but this will only give the horse something to lean on so he does not have to bend his hocks.

The horse may also try to pivot around the outside hind leg, putting the outside foreleg down behind the inside one – he is in fact moving backwards, so just ride him forwards strongly. It is better to attempt this near a fence or a wall, making it more difficult for the horse to throw his quarters out. Ask only for one or two steps to begin with and ride him straight out of it, praising the horse when he does it correctly.

The rein back

In his book, DRESSAGE – Begin the right way, Lockie Richards says that the rein back may be used only when the horse is going forward and has reached a reasonable degree of suppleness. “From a square halt, the horse steps back, using his legs in diagonal pairs with his back round and the hind legs well under him. The horse should stay in a round position and step back keeping straight.”

It is always easier to teach a horse to rein back along a wall or a fence to help control the quarters. Have someone on the ground to initially gently push the horse’s chest back as the rider applies the aids. Finally, when the horse seems to understand what is required, the helper can step away completely.

Says Richards: “The rider should ask the horse to go forward with his inside leg on the girth and as the horse starts forward into his receiving and passively resisting hand, he should use very quiet alternate rein aids. Taking and giving quietly, each step. If the horse comes back one or two steps, allow him to walk straight forward on a contact.”

Ensure that you don’t pull hard on the horse’s mouth, sawing, lifting the hands, or lean back. This will result in a horse hollowing his back, throwing his head in the air and in the case of some sensitive and highly strung horses, attempting to rear to get out from the pressure.

Keep the horse moving in a straight line. “If the horse should be inclined to swing his quarters in because he does not want to round his back and bend the joints in his hind legs, the rider should use his inside leg back a little.” Make sure that the horse is moving actively, picking up his feet, not dragging them and weaving from one diagonal to the other – these are all signs of stiffness.